Sander with assorted grits from 180 up to around 400.
Clear PLA filament 1.75mm or 3mm, whatever your printer uses. I prefer to use Danish oil on walnut, it brings out the contrast in the grain Oil or lacquer for finishing off the wood. Windows glass should be good enough and is fairly cheap While more expensive, these boards are very convenient. I also recommend buying the finished planks at Home Depot or Lowes if you don't have a planer or joiner. I used walnut since I like darker woods they contrast with lights better. 
I recommend at least 16-18 awg for safety with the amount of current the LED's draw
5V Power supply with enough amperage for the LED's used. This is overkill as only one pin is needed and the program is small, but it is a cheap and small form factor option Arduino Pro Micro the ATMEGA328P 5V variant. To achieve this for both "7" I did need to reconfigure the "8" on the red/orange cube as without this change, there weren't enough white single tiles.-I bought 4 meters so that I would have some extra and ended up only using 3 meters I switch the two stud tile for a pair of singles, one white, one colour coded to give the diagonal a better shape (IMO). Top crossbar then a two stud tile down from the right side. With that in mind I found a couple of the the "1" faces could use an extra tile to complete the line of three, giving it more flexibility on the angle the cube can sit whilst remaining level.Īlso, I didn't like the shape of the "7" used. There are a number of of colour-coded tiles used on some of the cube faces and it took my a moment to work out their purpose, basically to provide a level cross-section for the cube to sit on when that face is down in the tray. I did make a couple of small modifications to the official build instructions though, which I've detailed in the accompanying pics. Love my perpetual calendar and it sits proudly on my desk at work (clean desk policy but, so far it's yet to be removed)
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